Q. I have 5 outdoor lights in my front yard that are on a timer, and the transformer is in the garage. These lights are (I believe) not low-voltage.. I use 25 watt bulbs in them. There is a thick black and white insulated wires running to each light. I need them replaced. I am not 100% certain what type of lights to get. Any help is greatly appreciated!
A. Pete, you got me confused. You say that you think they are not low voltage but you also say there is a transformer in the garage. If there is a tranformer, check that to see if it is 12 or 24V. also see if there is a wattage rating on the transformer somewhere. You should only go 70-75% of load. The type of bulb will depend on your fixture. Some take a standard screw in type. some are bi-pins and then there are the MR types that project light.Any more help can be had by e-mailing me.
need to find out how to wire a transformer and outdoor lighting?step by step?
Q. i installed outdoor lighting and im not sure if my wiring is right because i get a huge voltage drop. someone keeps telling me to loop the wiring and im not too sure what they are talking about. if someone can h thank you
A. Looping the wiring means connect both ends of the wiring together....ex: you have a 20ft wire....you connect one end to the transformer and tape up the other end,or bury it etc. so instead of tape it or burying it run the end back to the transformer so you have a "loop" or closed circuit. However if the lights keep cycling on and off it means that the transformer is overloaded. a quick fix is basically just add 1 or 2 more lights to lower the voltage going back into the transformer.
How to replace one of the three regular outdoor lights for motion sensing light?
Q. I have three outdoor lights operated by one switch and I'd like one of them to replace with motion sensing light. I do not want the rest two lights to be ON all night, i just want one light to bi sensor operated over the night. And again, all three are on the same switch. How do i do this?
A. Well.........since all 3 are currently on a switched system (all the same) then you need to rewire the one you want to be "constant" as not to be on the same switch control.
You first need to determine if the wiring goes directly to the switch or to a basement/attic junction box.
If you can locate the wiring that goes out to the one you want seperate, you are halfway home. Now you need a voltage meter for the next part as you need to find a 115vac that is not on the load side of that switch. If all 3 go to the switch box, its as simple as removing the one you want constant from the wire nut (or however all 3 were tied together) and instead place it on the line side of that switch instead (the other side of the screw.
If they do not go to the switch, but instead to a junction box,....then its the same process as in the switch box except you dont add it to the line side of a switch but merely wire nut it to the constant hot (which can be determined by measuring the voltage with the switch off and the one that still reads 110~120vac is your "constant"). If none give a reading with the switch off then you only have the switchlegs in that junction and you will need to run a new wire to get the constant 115vac. Difficulty varies but this is a job best suited for an electrician.
If this seems foreign to you then DO NOT DO IT YOURSELF as it is something that should be done by someone with electrical understanding.
You first need to determine if the wiring goes directly to the switch or to a basement/attic junction box.
If you can locate the wiring that goes out to the one you want seperate, you are halfway home. Now you need a voltage meter for the next part as you need to find a 115vac that is not on the load side of that switch. If all 3 go to the switch box, its as simple as removing the one you want constant from the wire nut (or however all 3 were tied together) and instead place it on the line side of that switch instead (the other side of the screw.
If they do not go to the switch, but instead to a junction box,....then its the same process as in the switch box except you dont add it to the line side of a switch but merely wire nut it to the constant hot (which can be determined by measuring the voltage with the switch off and the one that still reads 110~120vac is your "constant"). If none give a reading with the switch off then you only have the switchlegs in that junction and you will need to run a new wire to get the constant 115vac. Difficulty varies but this is a job best suited for an electrician.
If this seems foreign to you then DO NOT DO IT YOURSELF as it is something that should be done by someone with electrical understanding.
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