Q. I had this happen when I finished some floors yesterday. The floor is black & red v.c.t. and the bubbles kind of look like drops of water hardened under the floor finish. It didn't happen until I applied the 2 coat & only got worse with the 3rd. I gave extremely sufficient dry time, a lot more than usual (hours) and the weather here was extremely dry & sunny. I have never had this problem.
The floor was given 1 hour to dry with a lot of air flow in about 85 degree weather. The area that bubbled is just as you walk inside the building, about 2 rows of tile deep.(2 ft.) They aren't really bubbled, but look like it, you can barely feel it. Seems like it is somewhat like a shallow pitted effect?
By the way, I am a janitorial service...I have never seen this..kind of wild but my dad has been in the flooring business for 40 years and said he was unsure unless there is water trapped under the tile and coming through. But I appreciate everyones help. I think it may be air.
The floor was given 1 hour to dry with a lot of air flow in about 85 degree weather. The area that bubbled is just as you walk inside the building, about 2 rows of tile deep.(2 ft.) They aren't really bubbled, but look like it, you can barely feel it. Seems like it is somewhat like a shallow pitted effect?
By the way, I am a janitorial service...I have never seen this..kind of wild but my dad has been in the flooring business for 40 years and said he was unsure unless there is water trapped under the tile and coming through. But I appreciate everyones help. I think it may be air.
A. Sereral possibilities.
Air entrainment.. either during pouring or during brushout..
I like using a lambswool applicator for floors, which puts down a smooth coat.
Pulling the coat too quickly can entrain air.. try a slower motion.
Too THICK a coat in your DRY conditions may be causing the coat to skim too fast and not let the microscopic air bubbles out. You can add a retarder (like Penetrol for oil base finishes). This will let the finish level out. The draw back is more dust
Finally, water-based finishes are less likely to form bubbles since each coat is thinner and can level out
Air entrainment.. either during pouring or during brushout..
I like using a lambswool applicator for floors, which puts down a smooth coat.
Pulling the coat too quickly can entrain air.. try a slower motion.
Too THICK a coat in your DRY conditions may be causing the coat to skim too fast and not let the microscopic air bubbles out. You can add a retarder (like Penetrol for oil base finishes). This will let the finish level out. The draw back is more dust
Finally, water-based finishes are less likely to form bubbles since each coat is thinner and can level out
Can you use floor finish as glaze for Air dry clay?
Q. I was really wondering because I think floor finish is much cheaper. I hear you can use it for polymer and cold porcelain clay. But Im just not really sure if its okay for air dry! Thanks soooo much! the best answer and the most informative will be rewarded with 10 points. Thank you.
A. (First, cold porcelain clay is one of the air-dry clays, and any kind of clear finish can be used on air-dry clays --most will dry glossy but some kinds will come in gloss, satin and matte versions.)
If you're thinking of floor polish like Mop 'N Glo or Future (now renamed Pledge with Future Shine for vinyl or wood), it's cheap and pretty tough after drying. It's a little on the thin side though.
Many polymer clayers (and any others who want a tough clear gloss finish, which will also act as a sealer for porous surfaces like air-dry clay, and isn't thin like Future/etc) use gloss polyurethane as their primary finish. It's also cheap since you'd buy it in a can in a hardware store rather than a tiny bottle in a craft/art store.
You can read more about clear finishes and the two mentioned above in some of my previous answers if you're interested--there's a lot of overlap, but each answer has a bit more info you may be interested in:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120116100721AABpuV2
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110106174533AALl6iS
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100606134234AAlJaN0
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120323230957AADW6kU
And you might want to read my answer here too about the various kinds of "clay" there are these days, which are air-dry, etc:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100621051506AA53JtD (ignore the 2nd paragraph)
.
If you're thinking of floor polish like Mop 'N Glo or Future (now renamed Pledge with Future Shine for vinyl or wood), it's cheap and pretty tough after drying. It's a little on the thin side though.
Many polymer clayers (and any others who want a tough clear gloss finish, which will also act as a sealer for porous surfaces like air-dry clay, and isn't thin like Future/etc) use gloss polyurethane as their primary finish. It's also cheap since you'd buy it in a can in a hardware store rather than a tiny bottle in a craft/art store.
You can read more about clear finishes and the two mentioned above in some of my previous answers if you're interested--there's a lot of overlap, but each answer has a bit more info you may be interested in:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120116100721AABpuV2
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110106174533AALl6iS
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100606134234AAlJaN0
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120323230957AADW6kU
And you might want to read my answer here too about the various kinds of "clay" there are these days, which are air-dry, etc:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100621051506AA53JtD (ignore the 2nd paragraph)
.
What type of floor finishes would you recommend for the following cases?Justify your answer please...?
Q. What type of floor finishes would you recommend for the following cases?Justify your answer.
a) A chemical laboratory
b) A hospital
c) A garage
d) A bath room
a) A chemical laboratory
b) A hospital
c) A garage
d) A bath room
A. a) Chemical resistant coating on a concrete floor.
This will allow for a variety of spills without degrading the concrete's strength
b) Jointed flooring system
This will allow for an easy installation on a large surface area. It will also allow spills to be cleaned up easily without any seeping through.
c) Concrete floor with a standard sealant
This will keep the dust down and allow for easy cleaning or such things as oil spills. It will help prevent permanent staining of the concrete,
d) Ceramic tiling
With the large amount of moisture that this flooring will be subjected tom you need a material that is impervious to moisture. Ceramic deters the growth of mold and mildew as it is a nonporous surface.
Hope this helps!
This will allow for a variety of spills without degrading the concrete's strength
b) Jointed flooring system
This will allow for an easy installation on a large surface area. It will also allow spills to be cleaned up easily without any seeping through.
c) Concrete floor with a standard sealant
This will keep the dust down and allow for easy cleaning or such things as oil spills. It will help prevent permanent staining of the concrete,
d) Ceramic tiling
With the large amount of moisture that this flooring will be subjected tom you need a material that is impervious to moisture. Ceramic deters the growth of mold and mildew as it is a nonporous surface.
Hope this helps!
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