Q. In my entryway, we have wood flooring that has been warped do to water. My entryway also goes into my dining room using the same wood floowing flow. So, essentially I just want to take a small area (3x6) at the entryway to replace the wood flooring with tile. How would I go about this? Is it possible to cut the pre-existing wood flooring to make an area to lay the tile?
A. It is possible, as a matter of fact I've done it several times. Do you have an idea of the thickness of your wood floor - is it 3/4" or the 1/4" or 3/8" stuff. Knowing the thickness will help to determine what thickness of underlayment - tile backer board and/or your tile can be so your tile will not be thicker than your wood.
To cut the area out, I'd suggest you use masking tape and mark off where your lines to cut will be. The tape will make it easier to see the lines when you are cutting and it will also help to prevent splintering on the end grain cuts.
Once you have the area masked and SQUARED up. Emphasing squaring the area up - usually off the door. If your area isn't square then your tile won't look good. I'd suggest you take a hammer and chisel and remove some of the wood floor in the center of your area to determine the exact thickness of the wood. Once that is determined, take a circular saw with a plywood blade and set it for just a little shallower than that depth (to prevent cutting into the subfloor and weakening it). If the wood floor is oak, I'd suggest you take a utility knife and scribe along the lines you have and then using the saw cut just inside those scribed lines.
You must be careful not to cut beyond your lines - the area that can not be cut with the circular saw can then be cut with a sawzall or a sabre saw. The sawzall with a fine toothed blade is the best way to go. Again be very careful not to cut beyond your lines or cut through the subfloor.
Once the lines are cut, remove the wood and chisel and chips on the edges that the saws missed. Now, I'd suggest that you apply some polyeurathane to the newly cut edges to prevent any moisture from setting and grouting your tile from getting into the wood floor and staining or causing it to warp again.
Now that your area is cut out and the edges are sealed, You are ready to put down backer board and tile. I'd use hardi-backer, durrock, or a similar product - may only need 1/4" thick or could need 1/2" depending on the tile and thickness of your floor. Don't forget to allow for the thickness of thinset ( 1/4" usually) when deciding on tile and backer board thickness.
Set your tiles in the pattern you want and your entrance will look new again.
I hope that this helped answer your question.
To cut the area out, I'd suggest you use masking tape and mark off where your lines to cut will be. The tape will make it easier to see the lines when you are cutting and it will also help to prevent splintering on the end grain cuts.
Once you have the area masked and SQUARED up. Emphasing squaring the area up - usually off the door. If your area isn't square then your tile won't look good. I'd suggest you take a hammer and chisel and remove some of the wood floor in the center of your area to determine the exact thickness of the wood. Once that is determined, take a circular saw with a plywood blade and set it for just a little shallower than that depth (to prevent cutting into the subfloor and weakening it). If the wood floor is oak, I'd suggest you take a utility knife and scribe along the lines you have and then using the saw cut just inside those scribed lines.
You must be careful not to cut beyond your lines - the area that can not be cut with the circular saw can then be cut with a sawzall or a sabre saw. The sawzall with a fine toothed blade is the best way to go. Again be very careful not to cut beyond your lines or cut through the subfloor.
Once the lines are cut, remove the wood and chisel and chips on the edges that the saws missed. Now, I'd suggest that you apply some polyeurathane to the newly cut edges to prevent any moisture from setting and grouting your tile from getting into the wood floor and staining or causing it to warp again.
Now that your area is cut out and the edges are sealed, You are ready to put down backer board and tile. I'd use hardi-backer, durrock, or a similar product - may only need 1/4" thick or could need 1/2" depending on the tile and thickness of your floor. Don't forget to allow for the thickness of thinset ( 1/4" usually) when deciding on tile and backer board thickness.
Set your tiles in the pattern you want and your entrance will look new again.
I hope that this helped answer your question.
What is the best machine to clean my wood floors?
Q. Almost all of my house is covered in wood flooring and there are about 8 people in the house. So you can imagine how hard it is to clean massive wood floors that get ALOT of traffic. I need some kind of machine to effectively clean my wood floors. I've been researching steamers and steamer vacuums, but I want to know which machine will work best. Also, my wood floors are surface sealed.
A. Use a damp mop with vinegar and water mixed 10 to 1. Why waste money on a machine that may ruin your floors? If there is any break in the finish on your floor, a steamer is forcing moisture into the wood. This will cause stains and possibly rot. You want as little moisture on your wood floors as possible.
Can laminate wood flooring in two adjoining rooms be mismatched?
Q. We are moving into our first home and we are replacing the carpet in the living room with laminate wood flooring. The floor in the dining room is already laminate wood and joins up with the living room floor. We are trying to pick out new floors and are wondering if we can get a different color wood floor for the living room or if we need to match it perfectly with the dining room. Would mismatching the wood look tacky?? Calling all interior designers! I need your help!
A. What you are asking is a question of personal taste. I (being a wood lover) think it's kinda cool to bounce to contrasting wood off one another, But thats just me.
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